Best Eats: Peddler in Gatlinburg

Posted on August 15th, 2008 in Headlines by SCN

Sevier County Staying Power - The Peddler Restaurant in Gatlinburg, Tennessee
by Jim Eastin, SevierCountyNews.com

Tourists who come to Sevier county a few times a year are often surprised that the place they wanted go to “next time” has ceased to be by next time.   Signs, facades, and entire buildings change in what seems to be the blink of an eye.   If a business is not successful right away, there is little nostalgia for it in the business community.  Consequently, if a business remains successful, and little has changed for decades, there must be a reason.  The Peddler Restaurant in Gatlinburg is one such place.   The continually overflowing parking lot and chatting groups of patrons waiting in the hot afternoon Sun is one’s first clue that this is no ordinary restaurant.  The Peddler only opens for dinner and does not take reservations, so people who want to eat there have to be willing to wait their turn.  Entering through the front doors through the beveled and stained glass window of dogwood blooms immediately invites one into a dark paneled air of elegance and expectancy.

There are several dining rooms in the Peddler, some intimate and others large and festive.  Most overlook the gently gurgling Little Pigeon River as it emerges 300 yards out of the National Park.  The “leaving one restaurant, going into another” feeling one has when being led to a table is the result of the cobbled-together style of the original building.  The restaurant began as a residence owned by C. Earl Ogle, one of the first European-Americans to come into the area.  The original cabin was not adequate for his family, so the pieces of 4 other homes were added.   Rather then destroy the history of the original structure and vintage woodwork, the same “add on as needed” thinking was used when the residence was turned into a restaurant in 1977.  The original owner’s passions were also incorporated.  Mr. Ogle was a collector of millstones, and many were still on the property when renovations began, so one will find millstones in the front dining room set into the chimney and two smaller ones in the front Peddler sign.   In fact, the Peddler has lots of nice artistic touches that connect it to its location.  Decorated like a rustic lodge, the rooms are punctuated with touches of rock and stained glass all around including a lovely stained glass brook trout over the salad bar, and another in the bar area.  The touches of art are so in keeping with the rooms that there is no hint of “fancyness” in them.  One feels the he or she might have chosen the same thing to hang there.

But of course a restaurant cannot only be known for atmosphere.  For people to come back, service and food are just as important.  These are two areas where the Peddler is outstanding.  Known for steaks and proudly calling itself a steak house, one would expect that is not a good choice for vegetarian fare.  One would be right.  There are no pasta dishes or tofu on the menu. This is carnivore heaven and the meat rules.  It is true that the Peddler has one of the most extensive salad bars in the area, and that there are a few chicken and fish choices so everyone should be able to find something.  But if one eats steak, one should not pass up the chance to have it here.  And if one is trying give up meat from one’s diet- abandon all hope here.   The aroma and sight of perfectly cooked steaks will eventually be too much.   The “steak peddler” brings the beef trolly by so one may choose his or her own cut and he has time to explain the cuts and what to look for.  Unlike many chains, the Peddler’s meat is properly aged and cooked over hickory charcoal precisely as ordered.  The quality is superb.

Service is also quite good and unlike other chains, servers know what they are talking about.  Teddy Smith, who grew in Gatlinburg came back to help manage the Peddler in 1990 and has been there ever since.  “Everyone is like family,” he says.  “All of the staff have been here at least 3 years and most of them over 10 years.  In the lobby we have photos of everyone who works here.”   Longevity shows.   There is no hesitation when one asks the server about ingredients or special orders- they already know the answer.

The owners, Pat and Geoffrey Wolpert also have the Park Grill Restaurant in Gatlinburg.  When the Peddler was purchased by them it was one a small chain of Peddlers in Knoxville, Nashville, Bristol and Boone, but they decided to concentrate their efforts on making this Peddler an exclusive.  In this, they have made a great success.  The Peddler is synonymous with Gatlinburg and fine dining.  The only negatives to report are minor and in part a result of the Peddler’s success.  The cozy nature and architectural disunity of the building makes it a little noisy which takes away from the fine dining experience, and the small lobby means that many people wait in the parking lot to get in.  Prices at the Peddler are higher than other steak houses but a bargain for those who appreciate “the good stuff.”  Without a doubt, the Peddler has earned its reputation as “the place one brings guests from out of town.” And one need not worry about “next time” because if it keeps doing what it is doing, the Peddler will be here for a very long time to come.
Appetizers ranger from $8-$12.00 and entrees from $19-$39.00, desserts are $6-$9 and very special. “Kristi’s Chocolate Cake” (named after the chef) is so large it could serve four people and could be ordered “instead of” dinner.   There is also a nice selection of dessert coffees on the menu. The Peddler has a short but adequate wine list and serves mixed drinks.  They will not take reservations but one can call ahead for wait times and to be added to a waiting list.  They stop seating at 10 p.m.

Peddler
820 River Road
Gatlnburg TN
865 436-5794